Sewing machine for applying button stay strips



J. R, MOFFATT. SEWING IVIACI'IINE FDRAPPLYING BUTTON SIYSTRIPS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 3. 1920. Y

Patented July il, 1922.

'5 SHEETS-SHEET l.

- I. RfMoFF/m.. SEWING MACHINE FORAPPLYING BUTTON STAY STRIPS.

APPLICATION FIJLED FEB. 3 1.92.0. Y

Patentd .Tuly U, 1922..

5 sums-SHEET 2,

I. H. IVIOFFATT.

SEWING .MACHINE FOR A PPLYING BUTTON STAY STRIPS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 3. 1920.

Patented July M, 1922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

I. R. IVIOFFATT., SEWING MACHINE FORAPPLYING BUTTON STAY STRIPS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 3, 1920. t

Patented July l, 1922 J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE F08 APPLYING BUTTON STAY STRIPS. APPLICATION FILED mg. 3, 1920. 1.422922@ v Patented July U, 1922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

'earner ortica.

JAMES R. MGFEATT, OE' CEL'CAGO, ILLINGIS, ASSEGNKR TO UNION SPECEAL MACHENE COMPANY, 0F CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION 0F ILLINOIS,

SEWING MACHINEFOR APPLYING BUTTON STAY STRIPS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

YlPa'teinted July ill, i922.

Application led February 3, 1920. Serial No. 356,101.'

Applying Button Stay Strips, `of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a sewing machine, and more particularly to a sewing machine which may be used for applying a button stay strip to a garment.

ein object of the invention 'is to provide devices which may bemanually operated for folding the finishing-off end of the button stay strip and for holding sa'id end folded until it is stitched.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine with devices of the above characterwherein the finishing-off end of the said strip may be folded on a line diagonally of the strip so asto form a' pointed finished end.

A. further object of the invention is to provide 'a machine of the above character with a cutting device which operates to first sever the button stay strip from the supply, after which the severed end is folded in the manner stated.

rFliese and other objectswill in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

ln the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the inven tion Figure 1 is a front view of a portion of a sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig'. 2 is a top plan view of the work support showing the presser foot and the parts associated vtherewith for severing the stay strip from the supply and for folding the end thereof;

F ig. 3 is a view transversely of the inachine on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. l is a sectional view on the line d-t of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a view showing a button stay strip as it is passed into the machine, folded longitudinally, severed, and the end thereof folded or inturned by my improvement;

Fig. 6 is a bottom eide view of a portion of a garment showing a stay strip stitched thereto with the end folded by my improved evices;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line 7-7 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a View, partly in section and partly in plan showing the presser foot and the cutting and folding devices, said cuttin and folding devices having been actuated a sufiicient distance to bring about a cutting f' of the stay strip and a partial placing of the folderfinger for the stay strip;

Fig. 9 is a similar view but showing the folder finger placed and the turning finger moved so as to fold theend ofthe strip about the folder linger;

Fig. l0 is a planxview on an enlarged scale showing the f' lding finger and the turning nger with the parts in position with the end of the stay strip folded:

Fig. l1 is a sectional view on the line ll-ll of Fig. l0',l

F ig.f12 is a longitudinal sectionai view through the folder and the cutter and showing `the means for actuating the cutter;

F ig. 13 is a View longitudinally of the work support just in rear of the cutter and looring toward the front of the machine; an

Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the folder for turning .the edge of the garment to .which the stay strip is to be secured.

It is desirable in the inishingof certain garments to stitch thereto a button stay strip which extends along the edge or the garment to which the buttons are to be sewed. This button stay strip is secured to the garment by. stitching the same to the garment by a line of stitching which also secures the infolded edge of the garment. In order to finish off the lower edge of the button stay strip, it is desirable to fold the edge diagonally and to secure the folded edge by the line of stitching which passes along one side of the button stay strip.

The present invention is directed broadly to a combination of devices applied to a `sewing machine which may be operated at will for first severing the stay strip from its supply, and then off end of the stay strip. rFinis folding is brought about by means of a folding nger which is moved so as to overlie the strip and a turning finger which is moved so as to engage the end of the strip and turn the folding the inishingl same over the folding finger1 When this end of the strip has been turned over the folding finger, it is held in folded position by means of a yielding plate so that the turning finger and folding finger may be withdrawn and the machine operated to finish olf the stitching of the button stay strip. Referring more in detail to the drawings, as herein shown the invention is applied to a sewing machine consisting of a bed plate 1 on which is mounted a work support 2.- The machine is provided with-an overhanging arm 3 in which a needle bar 4 reciprocates, carrying a needle 5. The needle bar is reciprocated is held on the work support by means of a presser foot 7 and is fed across the work support by the usual feed dog 7a. Cooperating with the needle 5 is a looper 5a. These parts are of the usual construction, and further detailed description of the sewing machine is not vthought necessary.

In Figs. 6 and 7 of the drawings, there is shown a portion of a garment wherein the' body fabric is indicated at G. The stay strip is indicated at S. The edge of the garment is turned underneath, as indicated at g, and is stitched by a line of stitching, indicated at s. The stay stri as it is fed into the machine is folded, as indicated in Fig. 5. Said stri is folded longitudinally so as to brin the e ges of the strip substantially toget er. This leaves a folded finished edge f. This stay strip is severed, as indicated at c, and the end of the strip, indicated at s is folded over a diagonal line so that the cut edge, indicated vat c is parallel with the longitudinal free edges of the strip. This folded over edge lies between the body of the strip and the body ofthe garment, and the line of stitching s passes through the strip vand through the folded over end, thus securing the same. This forms a very neat finish, in which the free edge of the stay strip is a folded edge andthe strip terminates in a point which extends underneath the folded over section of the garment, indicated vat g.

The fabric strip which is folded to form a stay strip is preferably wound in reel form and is led into a folder 8. This folder is so constructed as to fold the strip longitudinally, turning the edges thereof rearwardly with the fold between the edges atthe front. After the strip leaves the folder it is led in a direction at right angles to the longitudi- -nal axis of the folder, Said folder is formed' with an extension 9, the free edge 10 of which iscut at an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axis of the folder and is rounded olf to provide a smooth edge over which the strip may be directed. After leaving this extension, the ystrip passes into a guiding recess 11, and thence on its way to the stitching mechanism. As the direction of the strip is changed", the free edges of the by a needle lever 6. The material` strip will be brought to the left hand side of i the strip, while the other side of the strip is folded.

The body garment to `which the button.

stay strip is attached is led through a folder 12 formed with a guiding recess 13 so shaped as to turn underneath the edge g of the body garment, and also fold said edge about the body garment as the body garment passes l therethrough. This is the usual form of folder and further description thereof is not thought necessary.

The folder 12 is secured to the work support by means of a shank 15 through which a screw 16 passes, which screw is threaded into the work support. The shank 15 carrying the folder has a depending standard17 and a bracket 18 is secured thereto by means of screws 19--19 This bracket also overlaps the work support at the right hand end thereof and a screw 20 passing therethrough and threadedinto the work support serves as an additional means for rigi ly securing the bracket to the work support.

Mounted in suitable guides in the bracket 18 is a cutter 21, see Fig. 12. This cutter is normally depressed by means of a spring 22.

The cutter is raised by means of an oscillatlng sleeve 23 having a projection 24 on which the lower end ofthe cutter rests. This sleeve is secured to an operating shaft 25 by suitable set screws, and the operating shaft 25 is provided with an arm 26 which may be connected toa suitable treadle so that the shaft -may be oscillated and thereby the cutter raised at will. This cutter crosses the path of movement of the stay strip.

The guiding recess 11 is formed by a plate l 27 which is secured to the bracket and spaced therefrom adjacent one end to form this guiding recess 11. This plate 27 forms a ledger blade against which the cutting knife 21 forces the stay strip for cutting the same, the stay strip being led through this guiding recess 11 and beneaththe plate 27.

From the above, itwill be apparent that the operator at will may depress the treadle, operate the actuating arm 26, and thus raise the cutter to cut the stay strip. Aftertheby a fixed plate 28,

plate 28 has an upturned edge 31,

' tioned and the folding finger so shaped that,

' when the shaft is turned, the folding finger is swung around infront of the edge 31 of the plate 28 with its folding edge 35, that 1s the edge over which the strip is folded, parallel with the upturned edge 31 of the plate 28. This folding finger swings around over the top of the stay strip. After the folding lfinger has moved over the strip and into position substantially (parallel with the edge 31, it moves along sai edge, approaching said edge closer and closer. At the same time that the folding finger is moved along the edge in the final movements thereof, the turning finger swings over the plate .28, and underneath the stay strip, which 1s held raised at its free end b this upturned edge 31, and engaging said ree end turns it over the edge 35 of the folding finger 29. The turning finger 30 is pivoted at 36 to the arm 33 and is frictionally held in various positions on said arm.

When the arm 33 is at its extreme right `hand position, as shown in Fig. 2, a stop 37 engages the turning finger and moves the same in a counter-clockwise direction until it comes againstthe stop pin 38. On the other hand, when the arm 33 is moved in the opposite'direction, an extended lug 39 carried by the turning finger engages a stop 40 andl causes said turning finger to be swung to the edge of the stay-strip. In Fig. 8 of the drawings, the folding finger is shown as having been swung over the stay strip so as to hold the same down, and the turning finger is just coming `into contact with the actuatingstop 40. A further movement of the arm 33 in a counter-clockwise direction swings the turning finger to the position shown in Fig. 9, and this causes the end of the strip to be folded over in'the manner above described.

rThe shaft 34 carrying the folding and turning fingers is shown more in detail in Fig. 3 of the drawings. This shaft 34 carries a collar 41 which is provided with an arm 42, and this arm extends between the arms of a swinging yoke 43. The yoke 43 is pivotedat 44 and has a depending lu` 45 adapted to engage in a recess 46 forme in the lever 26. As this lever 26 is swung, it

l will swing the yoke 43, and this in turn will swing the shaft 34. A spring 47 wound around the shaft 34 and suitably secured thereto and to the bracket 18 normally operates to throw the folding finger and turning finger to the position shown in Fig. 2, that is, in inoperative position.

When the end of the stay strip is folded pover, it is folded underneath the spring plate 48. Said spring plate 48 has a downwardly turned side edge 49, and this spring plate serves as a guide for directing the stay strip and also as yielding meansfor holding the end folded over onto the bottom of the stay strip until it comes under the presser foot. 'Said yielding plate 48 is formed with a shank through which screws 50-50 pass for securing the spring plate to the bracket 18` Extending rearwardly from the bracket 18 is a guide 51 which is also secured by screws `50-50, and this serves'to direct the edge of the stay strip until it is well underneath the presser foot. Said guide extends alongside of the presser foot to a point in rear of the stitching mechanism.

From the above, it will be apparent that the strip of fabric is directed into the machine, then folded intermediate its ends, and the direction of feed of the strip changed so that a folded stay strip is led in the direction of the feed underneath the presser foot. This stay strip crosses the path of a manually operated cutter which may be actuated at will for severing the stay strip, and the same manually actuated means which severs the stay strip operates a folding finger and a turning finger for turnin over the end of the stay strip, after whic the folding finger and turning nger are with-- dra-wn and a spring plate serves to hold the end turned over, and the stay strip thus folded passes to the stitching mechanism and the end of the stay strip is finished. The upturned edge of the plate associated with the folding finger serves as a means for insuring the folding finger passing over the strip and the turning finger first passing underneath the end of the strip, and then over the folding finger and the body of the strip.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and the arrangement of parts may be made Without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is 1. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, of means for folding a stay strip longitudinally and directing the same to the stitching mechanism, manually controlled means for severing said stay strip at right angles to its length, and manually controlled means for folding the cut edge of the stay strip diagonally of the length of the strip and for holding -the end folded until stitched.

2. The combination with stitching mechanism, of means for folding and directing a stay strip to the stitching mechanism with the free edges thereof adjacent the needle, means for cutting said stay strip, and means for folding over the cut end of the stay strip on a diagonal line so as to bring the cut edges parallel with the free edges being stitched and forl holding the end folded until stitched.

3. The combination with stitching mechanism, means for directing and folding the edge of a garment, means for directing a stay strip with one side thereof within the foldv of the garment whereb said stay strip will be stitched with the fo ded edge of the garment, means for severing said stay strip, and means for folding the end of the stay strip on a diagonal line for bringing the cut end within the folded ed e of the garment whereby the said cut en will be stitched.

4. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, a folder for directing and folding the edge of a garment, means for folding and directing the free edges of a stay strip within the folded edge of the garment whereby said free edges will be stitched as the edge of the garment is stitched, manually operated means for severing the stay strip, and manually operated means for folding the cut end of the stay strip so as to bring said cut end parallel with the free edges of the strip and between the body ing the final. movements of the of the stay strip and the body of the garment. n

5. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, a folder for directing and folding the edge of a garment, a" folder for fold ing a stay strip intermediate its edges and for directing the same with the free edges within the fold of the garment, manually operated means for operating a cutter for severing the stay strip at right angles to its length and forfolding the cut end of the stay strip on a diagonal line for bringing the cut edges of the end between the body of the stay strip and the body of-the garment and parallel with the free edges of the stay strip, whereby said cut end will be stitched down.

6. The combination of means for directing a strip to a sewing machine, means for cutting said stri at right angles to its length, a folding nger adapted to be swung over said strip to provide an edge over which'the strip may be folded, and a turning finger adapted to turn the end of the strip over said folding finger.

7. The combination of means for directing a strip to a sewing machine, means' for cutting said strip at right angles to its length, a folding finger adapted to be swung over lsaid strip to provide an edge over which the Strip may be folded, a turning finger adapted to turn the end of the strip over said folding finger, and means for operating "said folding finger and turning finger,^includin devices whereby said folding finger may e first swung over the strip and the turning finger operated onl f durolding finger.

8. The combination with means' for directing a strip to a sewing machine, of a. folding finger adapted to swing over said strip, a turning finger for folding the end. of the strip over the folding finger, and a. yielding-p ate for holding the end folded.

after the foldin finger and turning fingerA v have been with rawn,

9. The combination with means for directing a strip to a sewing machine, of a folding finger adapted to swing over said strip, a turning finger for folding the end of the strip over the folding finger, and a yielding late for holding the end folded after the oldin finger and turning finger have been Vwith rawn, said yielding plate having means for guiding the strip to the stitching mechanism.

10. The combination with,means for dil recting a strip to a sewing machine, of a folding finger adapted to swing over' said strip, a turning finger for folding the end of the strip over the folding finger, and a yielding plate for holding the end folded after the folding fin er and turning finger have been with rawn, said yielding plate having means for -guiding the strip to a stitching mechanism, and a folder for a body fabric for folding an edge of the fabric about said yielding plate and the stay strip directed thereto.

11. The combination with means for directing a stay strip, a plate having an upturned ed over which said stay strip passes, a oldin finger adapted to swing into position re ative to the plate, and a turnin finger adapted to turn the strip over the fo ding finger.

l2. The combination with means for directing a stay strip, a plate having an upturned edge over which said stay strip passes, a folding finger adapted to swing into osition relative to the late, a turning ngeriadapted to turn t e strip over the fol ing finger, and a yielding plate under which the end of the strip is folded and operatin to hold the end folded when the folding nger and turning finger are withdrawn.

-13. The combination with means for directing a strip, a folding finger adapted to swing over said strip and over which the end of the-strip may be folded, a turning finger holdin the end of the strip over thev folding nger, an arm carrying said folding finger, means for oscillating the arm, said turning finger being mounted on said arm,l and spaced stops adapted to engagethe turning finger at the extremes of movement of the arm for swinging the same relative to the folding finger to fold the end of ,the strip. and, for bringing said turning finger back to inoperative position.

14. The combination with meansy for directingA a. strip, a folding finger adapted to swing over said strip and over which the end of the strip may be folded, a turning finger holding the end of the strip over the folding finger, an arm carrying said foldingwfinger, means forv oscillating the4 said `arm, and spaced stops adapted to en .gage the turning finger at the extremes of movement of the arm for swinging the same relativeto the folding finger to fold the end of the strip and for bringing said turnin finger back to inoperative position, a vvertlcal shaft carrying said arm, a spring for swinging said shaft for holding the folding finger -in inoperative osition, and manually controlled meansor oscillating theV shaft to move said folding finger and turn-V ing linger into operative position for folding the end' of the strip.

15. The combination with means for directing a strip to a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating cutter for severing said strip at right angles to its length, a folding finger adapted to swing over said strip, a turningfnger adapted to engage the severed end of the strip and turnthe same over said finger a yielding plate for holding the end folde and manually operated means for operating said cutter to sever the strip and for operatin said turning and folding fingers to fold t e free end of the strip.

In testimony whereof, I ax my signature.

JAMES It. MOFFATT. 

